State Highway 35 loops around the East Cape — the easternmost point of New Zealand and one of the first places on earth to see the sunrise each day. It’s also one of the least-driven roads in the country. No motorway, no bus tours, no cruise ship crowds. Just a two-lane road along the coast, small fishing towns, marae (Maori meeting grounds), and a landscape that feels genuinely undiscovered.
This is the route for travellers who’ve already done the South Island highlights and want something different. Or for those who specifically want to experience Maori culture and remote coastal New Zealand without the tourist infrastructure of Queenstown or Rotorua.
The Route at a Glance
Opotiki — Te Kaha — Hicks Bay — East Cape Lighthouse — Tikitiki — Ruatoria — Tolaga Bay — Gisborne
Total distance: ~330 km loop (from Opotiki to Gisborne) | Recommended: 3-5 days | Difficulty: Easy driving, remote
Starting Point: Opotiki
Opotiki is the western gateway to the East Cape, 50 km east of Whakatane in the Bay of Plenty. Stock up here — supermarket, petrol, ATM. The next reliable supermarket is Gisborne, 330 km around the cape.
Opotiki to Te Kaha (~60 km)
The road east from Opotiki immediately enters rugged coastal scenery — cliffs, small bays, and the Pacific on your right. Te Kaha is a small settlement with a wharf, a campsite, and one of the finest small bays on the cape. Swim here if the swell is calm.
Te Kaha to Hicks Bay (~100 km)
The road continues east through Waihau Bay (good beach, basic camping) and Lottin Point. The landscape becomes more dramatic as the cape narrows. Hicks Bay has a general store and a lookout over the bay. This is deep rural Maori country — most of the land here is Maori-owned and many communities are predominantly te reo Maori speaking.
East Cape Lighthouse
A short detour off SH35 leads to New Zealand’s most easterly lighthouse — and one of the most easterly points on earth. The lighthouse itself requires a 45-minute walk uphill from the car park (about 700 steps). The view from the top, with the Pacific extending in every direction, is worth every step. Arrive early and on a clear day you may be among the first people on earth to see the sunrise.
Tikitiki and Ruatoria
Tikitiki’s St Mary’s Church is one of the finest examples of Maori decorative art in New Zealand — the interior is covered in elaborate carvings and tukutuku (woven panels). It’s a functioning Anglican church, open to visitors. No entry fee. Treat it with respect.
Ruatoria is the largest town on the East Cape — which means it has a petrol station and a takeaway. Fill up here.
Tolaga Bay
Tolaga Bay has the longest wharf in New Zealand (660m) — built in 1929 to service a remote community that had no road access. Walk to the end for views back along the coastline. The bay itself is a beautiful sweep of beach, calm enough for swimming in most conditions.
The Cook’s Cove Walkway (2.5 hours return) follows the headland to a secluded cove where Captain Cook sheltered in 1769. Good DOC campsite at the bay.
Gisborne — End of the Cape
Gisborne is the first city in the world to see the sunrise each day (when the date line puts it in position). It’s a relaxed surf city with good wine (Chardonnay country), a Maori cultural presence stronger than most NZ cities, and some of the best uncrowded surf in the North Island.
- Wainui Beach: The main surf beach, multiple peaks, surf school and hire available.
- Poverty Bay wine region: Chardonnay and Viognier are the specialties — different from Marlborough’s Sauvignon Blanc. Cellar doors open for tastings.
- Tairawhiti Museum: Strong Maori and local history collection. Free entry.
Practical Tips
- Fuel: Fill up in Opotiki and again in Ruatoria. Don’t rely on small stores having petrol.
- Mobile coverage: Very limited around the cape. Download offline maps before leaving Opotiki. Tell someone your route.
- Road condition: SH35 is sealed all the way but narrow in sections. Some tight corners. Allow extra driving time — you’ll want to stop constantly.
- Marae protocol: If you’re invited onto a marae, follow your host’s guidance. Don’t enter without an invitation. Photography may be restricted — always ask first.
- Freedom camping: Multiple DOC sites along the route. CamperMate coverage is less dense here — download the app data while you still have signal in Opotiki.
When to Go
Summer (December-March) is the best time — warm water, reliable weather, and the communities along the cape are most active. Avoid winter weekends if you want solitude; the cape is quiet year-round but especially so in the off-season.
Combine with the North Island Route
The East Cape fits naturally into the Auckland-Wellington route — head east from Rotorua to Opotiki, loop the cape, come out at Gisborne, and continue south toward Hawke’s Bay and the Wairarapa. It adds 4-5 days but transforms a standard North Island trip into something genuinely off the beaten track.
Get in touch to discuss how to build the East Cape into your itinerary. See our full fleet here.
